A Cebu and Bohol Travel and Reading Journey

Trip Notes

Was one week enough time?: Yes, one week was enough to do what I wanted in Cebu and Bohol, though you could easily spend much more time on both islands

Traveled solo?: Yes, felt safe and met a bunch of nice people

Time of year: Late February

Weather: Mostly sunny or partly cloudy, with one rainy day and one day with a heavy midday shower before clearing up again

Who I think would particularly enjoy Cebu and Bohol: People who love water activities and adventure travel, and who expect Southeast Asian vibes but don’t expect the cuisine to resemble that of mainland Southeast Asia.

What I read in Cebu and Bohol

  • Noli Me Tangere by Jose Rizal: A beautiful, complicated, satirical, Shakespearian tragedy of a novel detailing the atmosphere of the Philippines in the mid-late 1800s and the tension between ordinary Filipinos, wealthy Filipinos and the Spanish clergy that were basically running the country at the time. Rizal himself was tragically executed for his support of Philippine independence, and now he has a province named after him. 
  • Some People Need Killing by Patricia Evangelista: A harrowing account of the Duterte drug war by a journalist who witnessed Duterte’s rise and the consequences. Evangelista also gives an overview of the history of the Philippines, particularly focusing on Philippine politics in the 20th century and the circumstances leading up to the drug war. Very useful insight into modern society and politics of the Philippines.
  • How To Hide an Empire by Daniel Immerwahr: An unflinching account of the American empire, how the US government took over these areas, how it affected those under its power, and how it has been ignored (some would say censored) in the media within the United States. This book mainly focuses on the Philippines and Puerto Rico, and was inspired by the author’s time in the Philippines.

Cebu and Bohol Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive at Cebu-Mactan airport, take the ferry to Bohol, check in to my hotel

Day 2: Bohol tour including the Chocolate Hills, Tarsier Sanctuary, and Loboc River cruise

Day 3: Snorkeling on Baliscag and Virgin Island, relaxing by the beach

Day 4: Reading on the beach, then kayaking tour through mangroves

Day 5: Ferry to Bohol and ride to Moalboal, check in, dinner in Moalboal, then relaxing evening by my hostel

Day 6: Kawasan Falls canyoneering, nap at my hostel, then dinner in Moalboal

Day 7: Sardine run snorkeling, lunch in Moalboal, bus to Cebu City, check in to hotel and dinner

Day 8: A couple Cebu City culture sights, then head to the airport

What I did in Cebu and Bohol

In March of 1521 after a harrowing journey across the Pacific, Ferdinand Magellan and his crew sailed into the Visayan Islands, intent on claiming them for Spain and Christianizing the locals. After meeting with Magellan and hearing about this new religion, the King of Cebu suggested Magellan go to the small island of Mactan next to Cebu. The king of this island, called Lapulapu, was not interested in these strange travelers and their religion, and resisted their conversion attempts. Magellan decided this man should die rather than live as a king without converting, so on the morning of April 27, he and a small force from his crew sailed to Mactan to attack Lapulapu and his men. During this Battle of Mactan, Magellan was struck with a bamboo spear and then torn apart by Lapulapu’s men. This island, where Magellan met his demise and where Lapulapu cemented his legacy as a hero of Filipino history, is now home to the Cebu-Mactan airport. There’s a big statue of Lapulapu nearby, though I didn’t visit it. It was this island I flew into one sunny day near the end of February.

This was my first time in the Philippines, motivated to visit by my Filipino friends and the promise of warm weather in winter. I chose to go to Cebu and nearby Bohol this time because I wanted to see the Chocolate Hills, and also because there’s a direct flight to Cebu-Mactan from KIX. I was prepared for more of an adventure travel type of experience than I was used to — this archipelago of more than 7,000 islands attracts both the beach resort crowd as well as the snorkeling and diving enthusiasts, and since I’m not the former I decided to join the latter.

I went snorkeling twice and also ended up kayaking and canyoneering, the latter for the first time. As I expected, many of the travelers and locals I met were experienced snorkelers and divers. Hearing people talk about diving so often even made me consider getting my diver’s license and diving more before I admitted to myself that, though I enjoyed diving once in Okinawa and may go diving again sometime, I am generally content with snorkeling.

I snorkeled by the tiny Balicasag Island off of Bohol and at the Sardine Run in Moalboal in Cebu. I hadn’t done much snorkeling before and had never seen so many colorful fish in their natural habitat. And sea turtles! I was in awe of witnessing in person the sea turtles floating through the vast blue abyss, and it felt surreal being able to swim with so many sardines in Moalboal. Seeing so much life under the sea was exhilarating, but I could tell it as a shell of its former state. Seeing so much dead coral was really disheartening. It wasn’t difficult to understand why. There were so many tour boats out at Balicasag Island and so many snorkelers at the sardine run. I had also had a hard time looking for reef-safe sunscreen. I searched several places by Alona Beach in Bohol to no avail. I felt both guilty and disappointed. I had assumed communities close to reefs would supply it, but learned it was my responsibility to bring it with me.

On another day I went to hang out at the beach in the morning before kayaking in the afternoon. I took a walk along the beach and came across a beautiful section with beach chairs under perfectly placed tall palm trees. A section of the beach owned by a resort. I decided to sit down and see if I could get away with it. Not five minutes later a hotel security guard asked me if I was a guest at the resort and then asked me to leave. I went and sat under a tree further along the beach.

While kayaking through mangroves on Bohol later that day, my guide talked about how happy he was to educate others on environmental conservation and to show visitors the protected mangrove area, but he also lamented that some of his fellow locals show such lack of concern for the environment. We saw evidence of this in the evening when out looking for fireflies. While a group of us were silently gliding around in kayaks, other tourists on boats were clapping at the trees to make the fireflies come out. This made no sense, according to my guide. You need to be quiet and simply go where the fireflies are.

While my snorkeling and kayaking experiences, as well as viewing the adorable little Tarsiers at the Tarsier sanctuary, positioned me as an observer immersing myself in the habitats of other creatures, the division between the human and animal world that I am used to seemed blurred to me in Cebu and Bohol. Every day I saw so many dogs and chickens walking around by the street or hanging out in front of houses and businesses, out running their own errands and perhaps looking for shelter. I saw several cows relaxing under trees as well. It was both calming and unnerving — I was delighted to observe so many other creatures sharing this space and freely roaming about with humans, but the number of skinny stray dogs also made me anxious. I even saw some dogs near Kawasan Falls after I went canyoneering. I hope they get regular affection and food, as I felt I had been treated.

Other travelers I talked to maligned Filipino food, comparing it to Thai and Vietnamese food, as if the fact that all these places technically belong to the region “Southeast Asia” necessitates this comparison. Thailand and Vietnam may have the more iconic cuisines, but they also have the virtue of being part of the mainland and access to more ingredients. I still found the Filipino food I had to be comforting and almost too filling sometimes. After kayaking and canyoneering, I was stuffed with almost more comforting food than I could eat.

I tried canyoneering for the first time in Cebu. I wanted to see Kawasan Falls and heard about the canyoneering experience that takes you to multiple waterfalls, which sounded more fun than just taking a short walk to see one waterfall. My day of canyoneering involved swimming and climbing on rocks and jumping into the water from varying heights and even swinging into the water from a rope. I got too much water up my nose within the space of a few hours to be tempted to try canyoneering again, but I honestly had a blast for this one time.

These are the experiences that will stay with me. I came to see the Chocolate Hills, which I was able to do on the first day along with visiting the tarsier sanctuary and taking a Loboc River cruise. Though it was rainy, the view certainly did not disappoint. Yet it’s the more exhilarating, challenging experiences, along with the disappointments, through which I learn the most and that helps me better understand a people, their culture, and myself better. There is so much to see in the Philippines — so much that I’m a bit overwhelmed looking at other possible islands to visit. I can’t visit all of them, but I will definitely be back to visit a few more.

Local Recommendations

Sites

  • Canyoneering at Kawasan Falls (Cebu)
  • Sardine run (Cebu)
  • Chocolate Hills (Bohol)
  • Tarsier sanctuary (Bohol)
  • Panglao Island (Bohol)

Food

  • Lechon at House of Lechon in Cebu City

Eats

  • Lechon at House of Lechon in Cebu City
  • Hungry Monkeys in Moalboal
  • Lots of delicious homemade Filipino food

Favorites

  • Snorkeling and seeing fish and sea turtles
  • Chocolate Hills
  • Canyoneering
  • Friendly and laid-back attitude
  • Mangrove kayaking
  • Island scenery

What I would do differently

I would have looked for a connecting flight from Cebu-Mactan to Panglao, and would have just rented a snorkel set and gone snorkeling without a guide or GoPro in Moalboal. Preferably I would not have lost my favorite sunglasses, but that is my own fault.


Website: https://guidetothephilippines.ph

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